一篇翻译的国外的文章,关于暴力磨合 . 【转】 三楼更新!

王丶先生

这篇文章来源于美国最热的一个关于动力研究的网站（）。因翻译水平有限，只能将原文一起贴出，以免误解！

Warning: 警告：
This is a very controversial topic !!这是个有争议的话题！

I wrote "Break-In Secrets" after successfully applying this method
to approximately 300 new engines, all without any problems whatsoever.

在试验了大约300个新发动并且没出现过任何问题后，我写了这篇名为“磨合秘密”的文章。

Links to this article now appear on hundreds of motorsports discussion forums from all over the world. The reason is that over time, large numbers of people have done a direct comparison between my method and the owner's manual method, and the news of their success is spreading rapidly.

人们在世界各地的发动机论坛上都能找到我这篇文章的链接。原因是长期以来，很多人使用我的方法和手册上的做过比较，成功的案例广泛传播。

The results are always the same... a dramatic increase in power at all RPMs. In addition, many professional mechanics have disassembled engines that have used this method, to find that the condition of the engine is much better than when the owner's manual break-in method has been used.

结果都是一样的，各转速动力显著增加。另外，很多专业技工使用此方法后拆卸发动机后发现发动机的状态比用手册上的方法磨合后要好得多。

The thing that makes this page so controversial is that there have been many other break-in articles written in the past which will contradict what has been written here.

有争议是因为还有很多过去关于磨合的文章与我们这里介绍的相矛盾。

Several factors make the older information on break-in obsolete.

很多因素让那些旧的磨合观点变得很荒唐。

The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements, because as you're about to learn, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines.

最主要的因素是现在的生产商使用的是一种相比以前非常精细的油缸珩磨技术，这就改变了磨合要求，你应该知道，新发动机比老式粗珩发动机在吻合密封环的几率上要小得多。

In addition, there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring friction due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines.

另外，由于现代发动机油缸使用精磨技术，由摩擦环产生的摩擦热要小得多。

The other factors that have changed are the vastly improved metal casting and machining technologies which are now used。

另一个改变的因素是大量改进后的金属铸造和加工方法的使用。

This means that the "wearing in" of the new parts involves significantly less friction and actual wear than it did in the distant past.
这就意味着在新部件间的摩擦和磨损较过去少。

How To Break In Your Engine For
More Power & Less Wear !

如何才能使你的发动机磨合后的动力更强，磨损更少！

One of the most critical parts of the engine building process is the break in !!

发动机的磨合过程是最具决定性的。

No matter how well an engine is assembled, it's final power output is all up to you !!

不管发动机组装的怎么好，最后的动力输出还是决定于你自己！

Although the examples shown here are motorcycle engines,
these principles apply to all 4 stroke engines:

尽管这里所举例子全为摩托车发动机，但此原则适用于所有的4冲程发动机：

Street or Race Motorcycles, Cars, Snowmobiles, Airplanes & yes ...
even Lawn Mowers !!
( regardless of brand, cooling type, or number of cylinders. )

乘用或比赛用摩托车，轿车，雪上轿车，飞机，甚至割草机！！
（不论是什么品牌，冷却类型或缸的数量。）

These same break in techniques apply to both steel cylinders and Nikasil, as well as the ceramic
composite cylinders that Yamaha uses in it's motorcycles and snowmobiles.

这些磨合技巧适用于雅马哈生产的摩托车和雪橇车所使用的铸铁和Nikasil涂层或是陶瓷合成材料的缸体。

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??

磨合一台新发动机的最好方法是什么？

The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

一句话：狠狠的用！

Why ??

为什么？
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

如今，磨合就是在磨合活塞密封环。和人们认为的不同，活塞环不能靠弹簧张力来密封燃烧室的压力。密封环的张力只能用来刮擦油膜以防止其进入燃烧室。

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...  How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ?? Of course it can't.

你想想，密封环施加到缸壁上的弹簧张力为5-10 lbs。这么小的弹力怎么能密封住上千PSI的燃烧压力？？当然不能。

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

密封如何阻挡住巨大的燃烧压力？

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.  

来自它自身的气体压力！高压气体流过密封环顶端并进入其后面，施加向外的压力到缸筒壁上。问题是新密封环与缸壁的贴合度还差的很远，他们必须磨损很多才能完全与缸体内径密封。*作发动机第一公里（打开油门！！！）时，如果气压足够高，整个密封环就会磨损进入到缸壁内表面，尽可能的密封燃烧压力。

The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...

“软磨合”所产生的问题。

The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run. There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!
  
被珩磨成刀路相互交叉的油缸内孔像一把锉刀去摩擦密封环，密封环很快就将各高点磨掉，这与狠用发动机没有关系。很少有机会使密封环真正吻合，在第一个20英里。

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

如果密封环没有很快压合在壁上，在完全吻合之前他们将磨平这些粗糙的花纹。一旦这样，就没有办法只能重磨油缸，安装新环并且重新开始。

Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice, which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

所幸，大部分新车主都抵制不住“狂飙”一两次的诱惑，这就是为什么一般车不会出现这种情况！！

An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!

另外一个你或许没有意识到的因素就是销售商那里的组装员很可能非常猛地发动过你的新车，如果你没有意识到这个，那个肾上腺发狂的家伙反而帮了你的大忙。

Here's How To Do It:

这里就是如何去做：

There are 3 ways you can break in an engine:

有三种方法来磨合你的发动机

1) on a dyno在静态磨合机上
2) on the street, or off road (Motocross or Snowmobile.)
在马路上或高速公路上（越野摩托或雪橇车）
3) on the racetrack 在比赛赛道上


On a Dyno: 在静态磨合机上

Warm the engine up
completely !!
完全加热发动机！

Then, using 4th gear:
然后，使用4档

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
三次踩下1/2油门从发动机最大转速的40%到- 发动机最大转速的60%,冷却15分钟


Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
三次踩下3/4油门从发动机最大转速的40%到-发动机最大转速的80%
冷却15分钟


Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !! 三次完全踩下油门从发动机最大转速的30%到-发动机最大转速的100%
冷却15分钟


Frequently asked Question:
经常问的问题：

What's a dyno ??
什么是静态磨合机?


A dyno is a machine in which the bike is strapped on and power is measured.

It can also be used to break in an engine.

静态磨合机是一种能将摩托车吊起并能测量动力的机械设备，它也能够用来磨合汽车发动机。

NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration s**ks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.

注意：如果你使用的静态磨合机带有制动功能，那将是很危险的，在磨合发动机期间你要让它自己完全减速。（不要使用静态磨合机制动。）松开油门减速时产生的真空会从缸壁上吸取过多的油和金属颗粒。

The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.

密封环和油缸壁上去除微小颗粒是正常磨损的一部分。在减速时，油里面悬浮的颗粒排出排气筒，而不是积聚在活塞和环之间的沟槽内，这可以使环磨损减缓。

You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes

刚开始，你会看到发动机冒黑烟，这很正常，是因为密封环还没有完全密封的缘故。当你正确*作，你会发现烟没了。


Important Note:重要提示：

Many readers have e-mailed to ask about the cool down, and if it
means "heat cycling" the engine.

很多读者发邮件过来问冷却问题是否意味着“发动机的热循环”
No, the above "cool down" instructions only apply if you are using a dyno machine to break in your engine. The reason for cool down on a dyno has nothing to do with "Heat Cycles" !!!

不，只有在你使用静态磨合机去制动你的发动机的时候才使用上面的冷却，在静态磨合机上的冷却原因也和热循环无关。

Cool Down on a dyno is important since the cooling fans used at most dyno facilities are too small to equal the amount of air coming into the radiator at actual riding speeds. On a dyno, the water temperature will become high enough to cause it to boil out of the radiator after about 4 dyno runs. This will happen to a brand new engine just as it will happen to a very old engine. (Always allow the engine to cool down after 3 runs whenever you use a dyno.)

在静态磨合机上冷却很重要是因为大多数静态磨合机的冷却风扇比正常行驶时进入散热器的空气量要小得多。在静态磨合机上运行4次之后，水温会变得很高并使水沸腾、溢出散热器。新老发动机都可能发生。（不论你使不使用静态磨合机，经过三次运行之后都要让发动机冷却。）

If you're breaking your engine in on the street or racetrack, the high speed incoming air will keep the engine temperature in the normal range.
(In other words, you don't have to stop by the side of the road to let your bike cool down.)

如果你在马路或赛道上磨合你的发动机，高速进风可以使发动机温度保持在正常范围。（换句话说，你必须停在路边让你的车冷却。）

What about "heat cycling" the engine ??怎么样热循环发动机？

There is no need to "heat cycle" a new engine. The term "heat cycle" comes from the idea that the new engine components are being "heat treated" as the engine is run. Heat treating the metal parts is a very different process, and it's already done at the factory before the engines are assembled. The temperatures required for heat treating are much higher than an engine will ever reach during operation. The idea of breaking the engine in using "heat cycles" is a myth that came from the misunderstanding of the concept of "heat treating".away after about 7-8 runs.

没必要热循环一台新的发动机，“热循环”这个词是从发动机的各个新组件在发动机运行时被“热处理”来的。不同金属的热处理过程都不一样，并且在出厂之前厂家已经经过热处理。热处理需要的温度要比发动机运行时达到的温度要高的多。使用“热循环”的观念磨合发动机是荒谬的，这主要是源于，大约运行7-8轮后，对 “热处理”概念的误解。


On the Street:在马路上：

Warm the engine up completely: 完全加热发动机！

Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

王丶先生

由于风阻，你不需要使用就像你在静态磨合机上时的高档位。主要做好在2，3，4档上狠踩油门便可。

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want anyone to get hit from behind !!

实际上大部分车在2档时时速没有超过65 mph / 104 kph时不能完全踩下油门，最好的方法是在短爆发的猛加速和减速之间切换。你必须要使发动机转速超过65 mph / 104 kph来给环施加合适的载荷，同时，确定减速的时候你的车后面没有其他车辆跟随，其他司机不愿意看到你突然减速。我们也不希望看到任何人从后面被撞。

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more and run it through the gears !

磨合发动机最大的问题是如果你行驶在高速上（小油门等于没有足够的压力施加到环上）或在交通拥堵的城市里。在第一个200英里左右，到能随意变档的郊区去个个档位都跑跑。
Be Safe On The Street ! 在马路上一定要注意安全！

Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.

观察你的速度！当你不习惯一辆新车*作的时候，只在直道上加速，在拐弯的时候提前减速。在磨合的时候猛加速和猛减速同等的重要。

On the Racetrack:在赛道上：

Warm the engine up completely:完全热发动机：

Do one easy lap to warm up your tires. Pit, turn off the bike & check for leaks or any safety problems. Take a normal 15 minute practice session and check the water temperature occasionally. The racetrack is the perfect environment to break in an engine !! The combination of acceleration and deceleration is just the ticket for sealing the rings.Go For It !!        

慢跑一圈热热轮胎，之后关闭发动机检查是否泄漏或有任何安全问题。临时发动发动机运行15分钟之后检查水温。比赛赛道是非常完美的磨合发动机的地方。猛加速、猛减速是密封环密封的先决条件。

Yeah - But ...  
the owner's manual says to break it in easy ..                  
但手册上说要温和地磨合。。。

Notice that this technique isn't "beating" on the engine, but rather taking a purposeful, methodical approach to sealing the rings. The logic to this method is sound. However, some will have a hard time with this approach, since it seems to "go against the grain".

此方法不是损害发动机而是一个有目的、有方法的达到密封环密封的过程。听起来很有逻辑性。然而，有些人很难达到，因为其似乎与常理很矛盾。

The argument for an easy break-in is usually: "that's what the manual says" ....

温和磨合的支持者说：手册上这样说。。。。。。

Or more specifically: "there are tight parts in the engine and you might do damage or even seize it if you run it hard."

更有甚者说：发动机里的部件配合都很紧，太猛烈的运行可能损害它甚至失控！

Consider this:
Due to the vastly improved metal casting and machining technologies which are now used, tight parts in new engines are not normal. A manufacturing mistake causing a tight clearance is an extremely rare occurrence these days. But, if there is something wrong with the engine clearances from the factory, no amount of gentle running will fix the problem.

考虑一下：由于现在改进的金属铸造和机械加工技术的使用，新发动机里的紧配合反而不正常。如今厂家生产过程中的*作失误几乎可以忽略不计。但是，即使在工厂里有失误，再怎么轻柔（温和）的运行也不能修复这个问题。

The real reason ???
So why do all the owner's manuals say to take it easy for the first
thousand miles ???

真真的原因：为什么所有的手册都要求前1000公里要温和磨合？

This is a good question ... 问得好



________________________________________
Q: What is the most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Failure to:
Warm the engine up completely before running it hard !!!

问题：什么是发动机容易出现问题的最主要原因？
答：在猛烈的行驶之前没有充分预热发动机。

Q: What is the second most common cause of engine problems ???
A: An easy break in !!!

问：什么是发动机容易出现问题的次要原因？                                 
答：软磨合。
            
Because, when the rings don't seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate the oil with acids and other harmful combustion by-products !! Ironically, an "easy break in" is not at all what it seems. By trying to "protect" the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine !!

因为当密封环不能很好的密封时，通过的气体会污染机油（酸或其他有害燃烧物）。讽刺性的是，软磨合并不是你看上去的那样。尽量保护发动机但是相反的情况却发生，因为泄露的密封环在以后的使用期内会持续污染发动机机油。

What about running it in the garage ???

在修车厂运行怎么样？

Maybe you have a new snowmobile and it's not quite winter yet, or a new bike and it's snowing...

或许你有一台新雪橇车并且天也不太冷，或一辆新车并正在下雪。。。

The temptation to fire up a new vehicle in the garage just to "hear"
the new engine run can be very strong.

在修理厂发动一两新车的发动机就是为了听听新发动机运行性能的强大。

This is the worst thing for a new engine, in fact, my advice is:
don't even start it up until you're ready to warm it up for the first ride.

这对新发动机是很糟糕的，实际上我的建议是：第一次驾驶之前，直到你预热好车后你才能发动它。

The reason is that brand-new rings don't seat all the way around the 360 degrees of their circumference. The gas pressure from hard acceleration forces the rings to contact the cylinder around their entire circumference, which is the only way the rings can properly wear into the exact shape of the cylinder to seal the combustion pressure.

原因是新的密封环还没有360度的完全吻合。猛烈加速的气压迫使密封环完全接触油缸壁，这是唯一的方法使密封环合适地磨损成与油缸壁形状一致的外形来密封油缸的燃烧压力。

Now, imagine if the engine is run in the garage. There is no load on the engine, so the rings are just going up and down "along for the ride". Only a small portion of their surface is actually contacting the cylinder wall. The ring area that does contact the cylinder wears down the roughness of the honing pattern on the cylinder walls. Once the roughness of the cylinder is gone, the rings stop wearing into the cylinder. If this happens before the entire ring has worn into the cylinder and sealed, you will have a slow engine no matter how hard it gets ridden after that point.

现在，设想如果发动机在修理厂运行。发动机上没有负载，密封环只是上下运动。只有一小部分表面接触到了缸壁上，接触到缸壁上的部分磨损其对应的缸壁上的珩磨粗糙度。一旦缸壁粗糙度消失，密封环将停止摩擦进入缸壁。如果没有进入缸壁，不管你如何猛踩油门发动机的速度都不会很快了（动力下降）。

The difference between what happens in an engine running in the garage, versus one being ridden is a hard concept to put into written words, so if I may use the sounds that we all can relate to: it's the difference between "zing-zing-zing" and "bwaaaaaaaaaAAAAAA"

在修理厂运行发动机对比负载运行是很难用文字来形容的，我可以用声音表示其区别：zing-zing-zing" and "bwaaaaaaaaaAAAAAA！

During "zing-zing-zing" the rings don't get loaded for more than a split second, whereas during "bwaaaaaAAAAAA", the engine is in 100% ring sealing mode.

“zing-zing-zing”时密封环没有负载瞬间进入，“bwaaaaaAAAAA”是发动机进入100%密封环密封模式。

It's up to you: 这取决于你：

The loss in power from an easy break-in and the resulting poor ring seal can be anywhere from 2% - 10% !!

软磨合密封环密封不严导致发动机动力损失2% - 10%
In other words: 换句话说：

The gain in power from using this break-in method can be anywhere from 2%
-10% !!  

使用这里介绍的方法可以使发动机动力增加2% - 10%

Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!

问：什么是第三个造成发动机问题的原因？
答：在第一次运行后没有及时更换机油！

Change Your Oil Right Away !!

马上更换你的机油！！

The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...

前20英里之后，马上更换你的机油和机油滤清器！大部分的磨损立即产生，机油里面满是金属颗粒。还有，很多机加时产生的金属屑和其他生产过程中的污物量是惊人的。你应该在重新循环并进入传动箱齿轮中和油泵中之前把异物冲出。

Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to flush out all the loose metal ???

为什么制造商机建议600英里以后才排出金属异物？

3 more words on break- in: 3条建议：

NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!

拒绝合成机油！

Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least 2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving. After that use your favorite brand of oil.

使用胜牌，金富力或类似10w40矿物油至少狠用两满天或街道上行驶1500英里。这之后你可以使用你喜欢的机油品牌。

Viewer Questions:读者提问

Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??

如果磨合发动机这样快，你为什么还推荐使用矿物机油行驶1500英里？？

A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine, the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

因为约80%的密封环密封发生在运行的第一个小时里，剩下的20%的磨合过程需要很长时间。马路行驶不是一个可控环境，所以里程表中的大部分或许还不是在 “密封环受压模式”。合成机油很滑，在密封环完全密封之前实际上停止了磨合过程。很多客户很快更换了和成机油，之后不论如何猛烈驾驶密封环却不能密封。所以我建议更换机油前要多跑跑。

Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??

出厂的时候就是合成机油我该怎么办？

A: I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.

建议在磨合器更换成矿物机油。


Q: What about the main and rod bearings, don't they break - in ??

轴承需要磨合吗？

A: Actually, the operation of plain bearings doesn't involve metal to metal contact !! The shiny spots on used bearings are caused from their contact with the crankshaft journals during start up after the engine has been sitting a while, and the excess oil has drained off. This is the main reason for not revving up the engine when it's first started.

实际上轴承运转时不涉及金属对金属的接触！！那些使用过轴承上的微小斑点是由它们和支撑轴，在发动机被闲置了一会儿后，启动造成的，此时多余的机油已经流完。这就是为什么在第一次启动时不要急加速的原因。

The subject of plain bearings is one of the most mysterious aspects of engines, and will be covered in a future issue of Power News. In it, I'll reveal more information that fully explains the non-contact phenomenon.

轴承话题是发动机最神秘的部分之一，今后也将成为动力方面资讯的议题之一。

Q: Why change the oil at 20 miles ?? Doesn't the oil pick up
screen catch the aluminum bits ???

问：为什么20英里后就要更换机油？机油过滤器不会过滤铝屑吗？

A: It's true that the screen stops the big pieces, but many areas of the engine aren't within the oil filtration system. The oil that is splashed around will circulate metal debris to the lubricated bearing surfaces. For example, transmission gears and their ball bearings are unprotected by the filtration system, and even the cam chain makes a perfect "conveyer belt" to bring metal debris up into the cylinder head !!

答：事实是滤网过滤大的碎片，但发动机许多部分没有机油过滤系统。许多四处飞溅的机油会将金属屑带进轴承表面。例如,变速箱齿轮和外被过滤系统保护的球轴承，甚至凸轮链系可以作为一个极好的“传输带”将金属屑带入气缸盖！！

A close examination of a new engine will reveal lots of aluminum deposits on steel parts. This aluminum coats and tightens up the clearances of the parts, which creates a loss of power. Most of the time I spend "blueprinting" an engine is actually inspecting every part and "de-aluminizing" them !!

仔细检查一台新的发动机你会在各部件上发现非常多金属屑。这些金属屑覆盖并使各部件间间隙变得更紧，这将导致动力损失。我所花费在“设计/准备/计划”一台发动机上的大部分时间实际上是仔细检查其每个部件上的金属屑并去除它们。

I prefer to remove the oil pan and clean the aluminum bits out of a new engine out that way, but a $20 oil change is an easy and inexpensive way to flush the initial particles that come loose in the first miles.

我更喜欢更换油滤并将铝屑清出发动机，但只花20美元更换机油和机滤是一个容易并且便宜的办法把在刚开始几英里内还是很松散的金属颗粒冲刷掉。

Q: What about motorcycle V.S. car oils ???

问：摩托车和汽车机油对比怎么样？

A: This is a topic all by itself !! It will be covered in a future issue of Power News.

答：这本身就是一个话题！它也是未来动力资讯讨论的问题。

Q: Will this break - in method cause my engine to wear out faster ???

这里介绍的磨合方法不会使发动机加速磨损吗？

A: No, in fact, a poor ring seal will allow an increase in the by products of combustion to contaminate the oil. Acid contamination and oil consumption are the 2 reliability problems which are the result of an "owner's manual" or "magazine tech article" ** easy break-in.

不会！较差的密封将使燃烧室里燃烧的废料增加并污染机油。反而使用手册里或技术杂志里介绍的软磨合方法会增加酸性污染物和燃油消耗量。

By following the instructions on this page, you'll find that your oil is cleaner and the engine will rev quicker. Plus, you'll have much better torque and power across the power range from the vastly improved ring seal.

这里介绍的方法会使你的机油更干净，发动机转得更快！较大提高密封环的密封性可以超越你的动力输出范围从而获得更大的扭力和动力！

Reliability and Power are 100% connected !!

可靠性和动力完全联系在一起！！

王丶先生

关于暴力磨合本人也亲自测试过,曾经和朋友一起提了两辆一模一样的125踏板摩托,0-2000公里之内其中一辆为正常磨合,另一辆为暴力磨合，换油周期,保养用品,两辆车均为一模一样,2000公里测试的时候戏剧性的一幕发生了,测试项目为起步,加速,急速,油耗.

起步：两车同时起步0-60km平衡,60km一过暴力磨合的车速度明显比正常磨合的车快很多。
加速：同上,60km以内相同,超过60km暴力磨合车辆快。
急速：正常磨合车辆急速表显124左右,暴力磨合车辆表显130左右,两车同时起步直到急速,暴力磨合的车辆比正常磨合的车辆快很多。
油耗：暴力磨合车辆比正常磨合车辆百公里少0.6个油左右。

以上数据仅供参考

火男

确实这样  平时怎么跑就怎么跑

面包会有的。

不错。。。

雪雪雪

新泰疯子

hurryboboo

  有点儿意思

我叫猴子

贝贝 有点长啊，看着头痛~

御用司机

一直感觉暴力磨合的车比正常磨合的车动力好，今天终于知道为什么了